Apart from Givenchy’s amazing show which I’ve already mused over, Paris Fashion Week threw up some amazing collections. Stella McCartney, Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Hermes and Celine are just a few whose collections made it down various runways in Paris and to celebrate the end of this seasons fashion weeks (can’t they just happen all year round please) I’m going to give a quick review of the best and biggest shows.
The overriding message from Louis Vuitton’s AW13 show in Paris, was that nightwear is endlessly chic and seductive. The audience were granted a peak into these women’s lives, as they made their way down a faux hotel corridor, before heading back to bed (where I can only assume they joined their lover) in their LV’s. These femme fatales wore glamourous satin nightdresses with vintage inspired prints, topped with plump red Old Hollywood lips, transforming the audience into a different era. Menswear coats had ombre glitters climbing up them, while models wore lace bras and trimmed slips underneath. Glamorous coats, which a modern day Grace Kelly would adore were cuffed with feathers and worn with delicately strapped heels, while an amazing co-ord suit in a boxy silhouette stole the show early on. Of course, Marc Jacob’s enlisted supermodel best friend, Kate Moss to close the show in the most decadent slip of all which would look perfect on Daisy Buchanan from Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby.
Celine and ladylike go together like two peas in a pod, and this collection married the two even further. Knee length skirts with gentle flares were presented in soft greys, creams and denim blues while ornate details were subtly added to each outfit in the shape of large slouchy clutches and choker style necklaces with baubles. The shin length soft leather boots in navy, greys, greens and mustards were an added sense of perfection while, Philo played with furs dresses, skirts and a coat in browns and bottle greens. A couple of the dresses were made to look as if they had a hoodie tied around their waist, however, this detail, also seen in Givenchy, was actually an all-in-one dress. Clever. The show was refined gorgeousness, and encapsulated ready-to-wear collections with every piece guaranteed to be seen on fashion royalty next season. My favourite? The mix of plaid’s used in the latter section of the collection, I will definitely be looking to replicate the beautiful plaid coat next season.
Pinstripes, vibrant colours, and beautiful plaids were the highlights of Stella’s Paris show. She described this collection as ‘redirecting lines’, a phrase which is conducive with the revolutionary tailoring which was present throughout the show in the shape of voluminous coats with curved shoulders and low lapels and masculine suits tailored for the female – paying homage to London’s iconic Savile Row (where she honed her own talent). A continuation of the use of plaids (trend) as seen in Celine earlier in the week cemented my plans for next seasons coat, while a relaxed jumpsuit in deep purple worn with an oversized clutch on the hip and that bright purple coat were my favourites from the show.
Sarah Burton has well and truly proved her right to take Alexander McQueen’s fashion crown after his untimely death in 2010. A series of three private presentations showcased ecclesiastical designs that transported the models back to the Tudors. Think Cate Blanchard portraying the Virgin Queen in Elizabeth. Pure white ensembles with decadent collars encrusted with pearls, billowing and intricate sleeves and delicate lace gloves were juxtaposed with leather studded dresses and to the knee boots. Burton’s designs would look perfect on the set of any historical film, and as beautiful as they are, it will be interesting to see how and who will translate these for the red carpet. However, the McQueen team informed those who were watching that the collection features up to 500 pieces which will all grace the shop floor, this small private presentation was just a show of craftsmanship which few designers could emulate.
Chanel has always been my favourite designer and my fascination with my 2.55 handbag is to the point of obsessional that my family tease me saying that if I’m made homeless, I will be the only homeless person with a Chanel bag strapped to them. So, for me, it was fitting that Karl Lagerfeld chose to have a large globe placed in the middle of the Grand Palais while Daft Punk’s Around the World played to symbolise the brand’s global power. The brand, and its designer, really have conquered the world.
The collection carried on this global theme with a deviance from the brand’s strictly French aesthetic. Layers were the key with short and pleated skirts matched with leather biker boots covered in chains which creeped up to the thigh. Coats were streamlined with strong silhouettes in pinks, charcoals, monochromes and navy tweeds and some had cut-away’s to reveal what was underneath – it would be a shame not to. Accessories were paramount, with orb purses hanging off models arms, Lego-inspired clutches grasped tightly and silver bracelets piled high on arms all proving chic. Chanel, I am in love with you.
What were your favourite shows at PFW?